Aliza's Recipes | Aliza Green (2024)

Serves 8 to 12

Description:

This simple but satisfying herb-accented soup was inspired by the cooking of America’s Shakers, known for their abundant use of fresh herbs. Make it in the spring and summer when fresh herbs are abundant; dried just won’t do here. Use any combination of tender herbs like tarragon, chervil, sorrel, dill, chives, and/or my personal favorite, lovage; the more the better for a fragrant, cheesy soup. I prefer gold potatoes for their warm color and buttery flavor.

Ingredients:

• 1 onion, diced
• 2 leeks, sliced
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 pound gold potatoes (2 to 3 medium potatoes), peeled and roughly cut
• 1 quart chicken stock, purchased or homemade
• Fine sea salt, grated nutmeg, and ground white pepper to taste
• 3 cups milk
• ½ cup heavy cream
• ½ cup chopped lovage, tarragon, chervil, sorrel, dill, and/or chives
• 2 cups shredded extra-sharp cheddar cheese

Directions:

• Sauté the onion and leeks in the butter in a large, heavy casserole dish until translucent. Add the potatoes, chicken stock, salt, nutmeg, and pepper to taste. Bring to the boil, cover, and reduce to a simmer for 35 to 40 minutes or until the potatoes are soft when pierced. Stir in the milk and cream.
• Transfer the mixture to a blender and puree until smooth, straining for an even smoother texture. Transfer back into the soup pot, add the herbs and stir to combine. Serve each portion topped with a small handful of cheddar and more herbs to stir into the soup.
• To store, cool the soup to room temperature before refrigerating for up to 5 days.

Note: To make the richest full-bodied stock that will gel as it cools–a sign that the broth is loaded with collagen, add about 1 pound of chicken feet. For those living in Philadelphia, chicken feet are available at Reading Terminal Market. Look for them in markets especially those catering to a Black, Latino, Asian, or Caribbean clientele.

To Serve 1

Description:

The name of this co*cktail translates to something like passion by chance, a nod to the power of serendipity that sometimes yields magical results. Aged Mexican tequila, French ginger liqueur, Mexican ancho chile-spiced liqueur, and passion fruit juice, a local favorite in Aruba, meld together in a well-balanced drink that excites the palate. The French Canton Ginger liqueur is made from an infusion of baby ginger with cognac, Tunisian ginseng, Tahitian vanilla beans, and Provence honey, and then finished with French cognac.

Ingredients:

• 50 ml [1½ ounces plus 1 teaspoon] Teremana Reposado Tequila
• 25 ml [1½ ounce plus 2 teaspoons] Domaine de Canton Ginger Liqueur
• 50 ml [1½ ounces plus 1 teaspoon] Ancho Reyes Chile Liqueur
• 50 ml [1 1⁄2 ounces plus 1 teaspoon] fresh passion fruit juice
• Garnish: dehydrated lime slice, habanero pepper, cardamom seed

Directions:

• Pour all ingredients over ice in a co*cktail shaker and shake vigorously for 30 seconds. To release aromas, slightly burn the garnishes: dehydrated lime slice, halved habanero pepper, and a sprinkle of cardamom seeds. Serve in a rocks glass over ice.

Yield: One 10-inch cake; 12-16 servings

Description:

This hearty, rustic cornmeal torte from Umbria is a typical autumn dessert that was originally a food of the poor, especially near Perugia. In the past, especially in the countryside, cornmeal was used for baking because it was inexpensive. The cornmeal would be mixed with boiling water and the mixture rested overnight. In the morning, raisins, pine nuts, walnuts, hazelnuts, and thin slices of apples were added before baking. I have substituted firm, juicy winter pears for the apples in honor of Umbria’s long tradition of using pears for both sweet and savory dishes. The cake serves a crowd, keeps well for up to one week, and freezes perfectly.

Ingredients (Umbrian Pear Brustengolo):

• 1 cup (51/2 ounces) golden raisins
• ½ cup mistrà, substitute anisette, ouzo, or Pernod
• 2 pounds (about 4) Bosc pears, cored, and sliced crosswise
• Juice and grated zest of 1 lemon (3 tablespoons juice and 1 tablespoon zest)
• ½ pound (13/4 cups) stone-ground yellow cornmeal
• ½ pound (2 cups minus 2 tablespoons) unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1 tablespoon baking powder
• 1 teaspoon fine sea salt
• 4 large eggs
• 2¼ cups sugar
• ½ pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, melted and cooled
• 1 cup extra virgin olive oil
• 1 cup (¼ pound) walnuts, lightly toasted and coarsely chopped
• ½ cup pine nuts, lightly toasted

Directions (Umbrian Pear Brustengolo):

• Soak the raisins in the mistrà for at least 1 hour, and up to overnight.
  Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spray a 10-inch ring-shaped pan with nonstick baker’s coating, or rub with softened butter and dust with flour, shaking off the excess.

• Combine the raisins and any soaking juices with the pears, lemon juice, and lemon zest.
  In a medium bowl, whisk together the dry ingredients: cornmeal, flour, baking powder, and salt.

• In the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the eggs and 2 cups of sugar until light and fluffy, 5 to 6 minutes. Slowly, beat in the butter and oil. Continue to beat until the mixture is entirely incorporated and the batter is thick and creamy. Fold in the flour mixture. Fold in half the pear mixture, half the walnuts, and half the pine nuts. Scrape the batter into the pan and cover the top with the remaining fruits and nuts. Sprinkle with the remaining ¼ cup of sugar.

• Bake on the bottom shelf of the oven for 45 minutes, then reduce the heat to 325°F. Continue baking for 45 minutes or until the cake starts to come away from the sides of the pan and a skewer inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool completely on a wire rack before slicing.

Yield: 36 small turnovers

Description:

For December, I share a recipe I learned to make in Çesme, Turkey from Senay Ornek, a wonderful cook and food lover, who invited me to her hometown to make this and other delicious Turkish dishes at her family’s small hotel. I worked with Senay, her sister, mother, and aunt making stuffed vegetables, lor cheese and sesame cookies, and Kadim Budu Kofte (“lady’s thigh”) meatballs named for the way they lightly jiggle!

The borekas can be made ahead and frozen before baking to serve at a holiday gathering. The dough gets its’ tangy flavor and tenderness from yogurt; the filling is simply crumbled feta cheese. The black nigella seeds sprinkled on top are essential for their distinct peppery flavor and tiny bits of crunch.

Ingredients (Turkish Cheese Borekas):

• 1¼ pounds (4¾ cups minus 1 tablespoon) unbleached all-purpose flour
• 2 teaspoons baking powder
• 1 teaspoon fine sea salt
• 1 cup whole milk plain yogurt
• 2 eggs
• ½ cup sunflower oil
• 1 pound feta cheese, crumbled
• 2 tablespoons nigella seeds

Nigella Seed – Many names for the same spice:

• Black caraway (though unrelated to caraway)
• Charnushka (Russian)
• Cörek oto (Turkish)
• Habbat Al Baraka in Arabic (“ blessed seed”)
• Kalonji (Hindi)
• Ketzah (Hebrew), mentioned in the Hebrew Bible
• Love-in-a-Mist (Nigella Damascena), a common blue and white star-shaped flower, is a close cousin.
• Onion seed (though unrelated to onion)
• Schwarzkümmel (black seed) or zwiebelsame (onion seed) (German)
• Siah daneh (Farsi)
• Tikur azmud (Amharic)

Directions (Turkish Cheese Borekas):

• Line two (18 x 13-inch) half-sheet pans (or other large baking pans) with parchment paper or silicone baking mats or rub with softened butter.
• Whisk together the dry ingredients: flour, baking powder, and salt.
• In the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the yogurt, 1 egg, and the oil. Beat lightly then reduce the speed to low and beat in the flour mixture. Beat only long enough for the dough to come together and form a soft ball.
• Separate the remaining egg and combine the yolk with the feta. Lightly beat the egg white with 1 tablespoon of water and reserve for the egg wash.
• Divide the dough into 36 small balls about the size of a golf ball. Flatten each ball in the palm of your hand to a circle about 2½ inches in diameter and about 3/8-inch thick. Place about 2 teaspoons of the feta mixture in the center avoiding touching the edges, which will prevent the dough from sealing well. Bring two halves of the dough together and press well to seal.
• Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 400°F. Arrange the turnovers equidistant from each other, about 2 inches apart, on the pans. Brush with the egg wash and sprinkle with nigella seeds, patting lightly so they adhere. Use a fork to pierce each borekas in a few places to allow steam to escape.
• Bake for 25 minutes or until well-puffed and golden brown. Note that some of the cheese filling will inevitably leak out. Store covered and refrigerated for up to three days. To reheat, wrap in foil and reheat at 350°F for about 20 minutes, uncovering for the last 5 minutes of baking.
• To freeze the borekas, arrange the turnovers (unbaked) on an oiled pan or one lined with parchment paper without touching. Freeze until firm, at least two hours, to keep them separate, and then transfer to a container with a lid, layering with wax paper. Keep frozen until ready to bake, up to three months. Arrange frozen borekas on a baking tray. Bake for about 30 minutes or until browned and the filling bubbles out of some of the pastries.

Serves 12, makes 18 individual cakes

Description:

I got the recipe for this luscious, moist cake from a friend who grew up in Caracas, Venezuela. Tres leches (three milks) is a light sponge cake which is traditionally soaked in three kinds of milk: evaporated milk, sweetened condensed milk, and whole milk. The Torta can be made several days ahead of time either in a rectangular baking pan or in individual foil cups.

Ingredients (Tres Leches Cake):

• ½ pound (2 cups) all-purpose flour
• 2 teaspoons baking powder
• ½ teaspoon baking soda
• 1 teaspoon fine sea salt
• 6 eggs, separated
• 1½ cups granulated sugar
• 1½ cups water
• 1 teaspoon almond extract (optional, substitute vanilla if desired)
• Milk Mixture (recipe follows)

Directions (Tres Leches Cake):

• Preheat the oven to 350˚F. Spray a 13 x 9x 2-inch (3-quart) baking dish generously with nonstick spray. In one bowl, combine the dry ingredients: flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt.
• In a separate bowl, beat the egg whites, adding sugar gradually, and continuing to beat until firm and glossy. Add the yolks to the egg whites one at a time, beating briefly after each addition.
• Mixing on low speed, sprinkle in the flour mixture and then add 11⁄2 cups of water and almond extract. Pour into the prepared pan and bake for 30 to 40 minutes, or until a cake tester comes out clean.
• To make individual cakes, have ready 18 (4-ounce) foil cups (or muffin tins) with nonstick coating and arrange on baking trays. Spoon, pipe, or ladle ¼ cup of the batter into the tins and bake 25 to 30 minutes or until set in the middle.
• Meanwhile, prepare the Milk Mixture and Topping.

Ingredients (Milk Mixture and Topping):

• 1 can (13-ounce) evaporated milk
• 1 can (14-ounce) dulce de leche
• 2 cups whole milk
• ¼ cup dark rum
• 2 cups heavy cream
• ¼ cup confectioner’s sugar
• 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
• ½ cup crushed cocoa nibs

Directions (Milk Mixture and Topping):

• Pour the evaporated milk, dulce de leche, milk, and rum into a blender and blend until smooth (or use an immersion blender). While the cake is still warm, use a toothpick to punch holes in the cake. Slowly pour the Milk Mixture over the cake so that it is all absorbed. Cool and then refrigerate.
• When ready to serve, beat the heavy cream until moderately firm. Sprinkle in the confectioner’s sugar and vanilla and beat again briefly. Spread the cream evenly over top of the cake and sprinkle with the cocoa nibs. For the cake, cut into serving portions and serve.

Serves 8 – 12

Description:

I served these luscious cannelloni at many weddings in my years at Material Culture, because the mild spinach and chicken filling is full of flavor and appeals to all ages, including children. If fresh spinach pasta sheets are available, use them for a more colorful dish. While you may substitute dry pre-formed manicotti tubes, fresh egg pasta sheets will yield lighter and more tender cannelloni.

Ingredients:

• 1 quart chicken stock
• 1½ pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs
• 1 (10-ounce) bag washed spinach
• 5 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 6 tablespoons all-purpose flour
• Fine sea salt, freshly ground black pepper, and freshly grated nutmeg to taste
• 1 cup heavy cream, scalded
• Juice and grated zest of 2 lemons
• 1¼ cups grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
• 1 pound fresh sheets (preferably spinach), defrosted overnight in the fridge if frozen
• 2 tablespoons thinly sliced chives, for garnish

Directions:

• Prepare the Filling: Bring the stock to the boil in a large pot. Add the chicken thighs, bring the liquid back to the boil, then reduce heat to a simmer. Cook the chicken until tender, about 25 minutes. Cool and drain, reserving both stock and chicken. Pick off any connective tissue and fat pockets from the chicken, then chop the meat. Strain the chicken stock and reserve.
• Fill a medium pot with a lid with about 1 inch of water and bring to the boil. Add the spinach and cook briefly until wilted. Drain the spinach and rinse. Drain again, squeeze the spinach lightly to remove excess liquid, and chop.
• Prepare the Sauce: In a medium heavy-bottomed pot, melt the butter and stir in the flour. Cook together over medium heat until light tan in color, about 3 minutes. Whisk in the reserved chicken stock. Bring to a boil, whisking constantly so the sauce is smooth. Season generously to taste and remove from the heat. Cover sauce with a lid or directly with plastic wrap to prevent a skin from forming and reserve.
• Combine the chicken, spinach, and 2 cups of the sauce for the filling. Stir the cream, lemon zest and juice, and half the cheese into the remaining sauce for the topping.
• Cut the pasta into 24 (4-inch) squares, preferably using a ridged cutter. Bring a large wide pot of salted water to the boil. Lay out several clean kitchen towels on a work surface. Add the pasta sheets to the water in 2 to 3 batches.
• Boil until the pasta is half-cooked, 2 to 3 minutes, and scoop from the water using a wire skimmer or slotted spoon. Transfer to a colander and drain, then run cold water over the pasta to rinse off the surface starch and stop the cooking. Drain again.
• Arrange the cooked dough squares in a single layer on the towels. Repeat until all the pasta squares are cooked. (Try to work quickly as the pasta sheets will start to stick to the towels once they drain completely.)
• Assemble and bake the Cannelloni: Preheat the oven to 375º.
• Spread about ¼ cup of filling across the center of each pasta square. Repeat with the remaining squares and the remaining filling. Roll the cannelloni up tightly.
• Spread about half the sauce onto the bottom of a shallow baking dish large enough to contain the cannelloni in a single layer. Arrange the cannelloni parallel to each other in the baking dish with the seam side down, pushing them in gently so they are tightly packed. Drizzle the remaining sauce over top, then sprinkle with the remaining cheese. (If desired, cover and refrigerate up to 2 days. Bring to room temperature before baking.)
• Bake 40 minutes or until browned and bubbling. Allow the cannelloni to cool about 10 minutes to set up, then sprinkle with chives and serve.

Yield: about 4 dozen meatballs

Description:

This month, I share my recipe for Moroccan Lamb Meatballs (Kefte), which may also be made from ground beef or even ground turkey. One of my favorite dishes out of all my trips to Morocco were the kefte in tomato sauce topped with an egg and baked in a workaday terracotta tajine at a simple roadside restaurant frequented by truck drivers.

I like to add bulgur wheat, a specialty of the Eastern Mediterranean, for lightness and nutty flavor. For those who prefer not to eat wheat products, substitute cooked brown rice (about ¼ cup raw).

Ingredients (Meatballs):

• 1 cup bulgur wheat, soaked in boiling water to cover by about 1 inch
• 2 ½ pounds ground lamb
• 2 eggs, beaten
• Sea salt and ground black pepper, to taste
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped ginger
• 1 tablespoon ground turmeric
• 1 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes or Turkish maras pepper
• 1 tablespoon ras el hanout
• 1 tablespoon ground cumin
• 1 medium red onion, finely diced
• ½ bunch parsley, chopped
• ¼ bunch cilantro, chopped
• All-purpose flour, for dusting
• Blended oil

Ingredients (Sauce):

• ¼ cup EVOO
• 1 medium red onion, finely diced
• 2 tablespoons chopped garlic
• 2 tablespoons chopped ginger
• 1 tablespoon ras el hanout
• 1 tablespoon ground turmeric
• 1½ teaspoons ground cinnamon
• 1 box Pomi chopped tomatoes, or 1 (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes
• ½ bunch parsley, chopped
• ¼ bunch cilantro, chopped

Directions (Meatballs):

• Preheat oven to 400 degrees. In the bowl of a mixer and using the paddle attachment, combine bulgur drained of any excess liquid, ground lamb, and egg. Add remaining meatball ingredients and beat again to blend.
• Cook a small amount of the meatball mix to taste for seasoning. Scoop into roughly shaped balls the size of a walnut. Lightly oil your hands and then roll again to form into smooth, round balls. Arrange on parchment paper-lined half-sheet pans (for easy clean-up) or other large baking pans without crowding. Roast 20 to 30 minutes or until well-browned. Meanwhile, prepare the sauce.

Directions (Sauce):

• In a large Dutch oven or braiser, sauté the onions, garlic, and ginger in olive oil until softened. Add ras el hanout, turmeric, and cinnamon and stir to combine. Cook together 5 minutes. Add tomatoes and about 1 cup water to thin. Bring sauce to the boil and cook over low to medium heat, stirring often.
• Combine meatballs and sauce, simmer 15 minutes, remove from heat, stir in cilantro and parsley, and serve, or cool and then freeze if desired.

The Soupmaker’s Kitchenis a complete guide to making soups, broths, potages, minestra, minestrone, bisques, and borscht. Learn how to set up your kitchen to use your ingredients most optimally—from saving vegetable scraps for stock to tips on freezing finished soups. Explore more than 100 soup recipes, plus variations on each one, from all over the world, and in every style of soup you might want to eat.

Available on July 1st, this colorful and easy-to-follow guide to the art of soupmaking belongs on the shelves of eager cooks and those interested in sustainability and cutting down on waste. Even if you’ve never made a pot of soup in your life, this book will give you culinary confidence with complete, detailed instructions and a world of wonderful soup recipes.

Recipes include:

—Hungarian Woodlands Mushroom Soup with Sour Cream and Paprika

—Tuscan Pappa al Pomodoro

—Senegalese Peanut and Yam Puree with Ginger

—Provencal Soupe au Pistou with Savoy Cabbage, White Beans, and Leeks

—Wild Salmon Chowder with Sweet Corn & Gold Potatoes

—Tom Kha Gai (Thai Chicken Coconut Soup)

—Cream of Cauliflower with Nutmeg and Chives

—Kerala Red Lentil Soup (vegan)

—Vietnamese Pho Soup with Beef Brisket

—Caribbean Callalou Soup with Crabmeat and Coconut

Focus on fresh ingredients and learn how to use every part of them to minimize waste, save money, and maximize flavor withThe Soupmaker’s Kitchen!

Serves 4

Description:

This well-known Senegalese dish from the west coast of Africa consists of marinated chicken that is either broiled or browned and then simmered with lots of onions and fresh lemon juice. It is often served over broken rice, which has a special couscous-like texture all its own. While this custom began because broken rice was cheaper, it is now preferred. Look for broken rice, sometimes called “Mali rice,” in African and Asian markets. The broken rice in Africa is fragrant Jasmine rice imported from Thailand.

Ingredients:

• 3 cups (about 2 large onions) sliced white onions
• 1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic
• 2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh hot green chiles
• 1 teaspoon ground ginger
• 3 bay leaves
• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme, or 1 teaspoon dried thyme
• 1 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
• Kosher salt to taste
• 1 cup fresh lemon juice
• 1 cup water
• 1⁄2 cup canola or vegetable oil, divided
• 1 (21⁄2- to 3-pound) fryer chicken, cut into 8 pieces

Directions:

In a shallow, nonreactive (not aluminum) baking dish, combine the onions, garlic, chiles, ginger, bay leaves, thyme, pepper, and salt. Add the lemon juice, water, and 1⁄4 cup oil. Marinate in the refrigerator at least 4 hours, or up to overnight.

Remove the chicken from the marinade and pat dry with paper towels. Strain the marinade liquid, reserving both liquid and solids.

Heat 1⁄4 cup oil in a large, heavy skillet (cast-iron preferred) and brown the chicken on all sides. Transfer the cooked chicken to a plate.

Pour off most of the oil from the skillet. Add the reserved solids to the pan and cook for about 5 minutes over moderate heat, or until the onions are soft and lightly colored. Return the chicken (and any juices) to the skillet. Add the marinade, bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer about 25 minutes, or until the chicken is tender. Serve with hot boiled rice.

(from Starting with Ingredients)

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