The fishmonger is laying out his produce on the ice. The counter is his stage, arranged fresh each morning, just as everyone is going to work in the early light. The catch is his cast, we are his audience, watching the sparkling ice with its ever-changing characters. A blue net of mussels; a tumbling pile of prawns in their shells; a rust-red lobe of smoked cod’s roe, and always a fierce fish head, its razor-sharp teeth barred, there to terrorise the kids.
Sometimes there will be whole squid, their tentacles tangled as if to comfort one another, or a cod sliced into soup-friendly pieces. There is often a crate of fat lemons and a box of spiky fingers of samphire. On a good day, there will be mackerel. The most sustainable are those labelled “line-caught”. Set in a soldierly row, each one taut and firm. Fresh mackerel for the grill, smoked for a pâté. The first shimmering silver and blue, the second in shades of gold, black and amber. Mackerel has always been a favourite fish of mine, long before I learned to pick out hake to cook in a shallow dish with a green sauce or halibut to grill as I might a sirloin of beef, its pearlescent flesh holding a shallow pool of almost melted butter and lemon.
A fresh mackerel is both subtle and succulent. When less than fresh its flavour will be too strong and “fishy”. Wait until you see your fishmonger open a new box. (A dull mackerel is friend to no one.) The stiffest and most bright-eyed are up for a tartare, the raw flesh meticulously boned and hashed with a sharp knife, then tossed with chopped parsley and dill, a dash of cider vinegar and some juniper you have crushed to a fine powder. It will need some cucumber on the side.
Of course, if you are at the beach, as well you might be, it is worth checking out the local catch. Best of all, I guess, is to land your own, but for that you will need more patience than I possess. Second best is to buy your fish while thieving seagulls circle overhead, when we shop with salt on our lips and sand between our toes.
Creamed mackerel, crushed peas
A smooth, almost fluffy textured pâté that you can spread or use as a dip as the mood takes. I sometimes make a coarse version, breaking the smoked fish into pieces with my hands then adding the chopped peas and seasonings and folding it only briefly with the crème fraîche. In which case you’ll need some rough-textured crispbread.
Serves 4
smoked mackerel 650g (skinned and boned weight 420g)
parsley a small bunch
crème fraîche 200g
lemon juice 1 tbsp
horseradish 2 -3 tsp, grated
grain mustard 2 tsp
raw peas 200g (weight after podding)
radishes 8
pea shoots 50g
Remove the skin from the smoked mackerel, separate the fillets and lift out the bones. Check the fish carefully for any fine bones that may remain. Put the flesh into the bowl of a food processor and pulse briefly, until the fish is lightly minced. Pull the leaves from the parsley, reserve a generous handful of them for later, then add the rest to the bowl, together with the crème fraîche, lemon juice, grated horseradish, mustard and a grinding of black pepper. Spoon in the crème fraîche and mix briefly. A second or two will suffice.
Check the seasoning then transfer to a serving bowl, cover and set aside in a cool place. Bring a medium-sized pan of deep water to the boil, salt it lightly then add the peas and let them cook for 3 minutes so they retain their crunch. Drain, then roughly chop them and put them in a bowl. Slice the radishes thinly then add to the peas together with the pea shoots and the reserved parsley leaves.
Place the crushed peas in the centre of the creamed mackerel, grating over a little horseradish if you wish.
Grilled mackerel with green chutney
I always think it’s worth taking mackerel to the limits, cooking the fish under or over a high heat, until the skins blacken here and there and the flesh takes on a distinctly smoky note. The chutney will be fine for a day or two in the fridge. I use it to dress slices of buffalo mozzarella or cold salmon.
Serves 4
coriander leaves and stalks, 200g
ginger 50g
mint leaves 30g
limes 2, ripe
green chillies 2-3
vegetable oil 150ml
mackerel 4, cleaned
cherry tomatoes 180g
Put the leaves and stems of the coriander into the bowl of a food processor. Peel the ginger and roughly chop then add to the coriander with the mint leaves. Halve and squeeze the limes then pour the juice into the coriander, add the finely chopped chillies, and process to a coarse paste, pouring in the oil as you go, to give a thick and glossy green paste. Salt lightly, then transfer to a bowl, cover tightly and refrigerate till needed.
Rinse and dry the mackerel with kitchen paper. Heat the overhead (oven) grill. Line the grill tray with foil (if you don’t, you will wish you had) then place the fish in the tray, close but not touching. Rub the fish with a little vegetable or olive oil, then season and place under the grill.
Quarter the tomatoes then fold into the chutney. Turn the mackerel, so the skin crisps lightly on the sides. Check the fish is done, then serve with the coriander and tomato chutney.
This recipe is for sustainable fish rated as sustainable by the Marine Conservation Society’s Good Fish Guide
Email Nigel at nigel.slater@observer.co.uk or follow him on Twitter@NigelSlater
